Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

Strange 815 sled?

L

Lokepi

0
Joined
Apr 5, 2012
Messages
20
Points
0
Hello.

I ordered a 815 sled from odiforce lasers some time ago, and today I got time to open it up. After getting the diode + heatsink off the sled, I noticed it didn't look like other 815 heatsinks that I've seen. The top part of the diode is covered by a metal piece with a small hole. This piece seems to be a part of the rest of the heatsink. So I'm wondering if anyone of you have seen this before, and if you know how to get the diode out from this heatsink?

(Sorry for the low resolution, Phone camera :yabbem: )

img0323eg.jpg


img0322qv.jpg


Any help would be appreciated. :)
 
Last edited:





I'm not sure about the diode mount and the differences, but perhaps this short video by DTR will help. This is the way I always extract diodes and i'v never damaged one yet. Just twist it back and forth carefully and the casing will break.

Good luck and have fun!

 
I dunno, for the 815s I usually just use the "file first then twist" method. Whenever I use the straight forward "twist" on anything other than an 803t or 16x sled it either breaks the can's glass or warps the diode's base.

Regarding the OP, that style of heatsink seems to be standard now. The past 6 sleds I've gotten (between now and November 2011) have used that style. I'm sure its been changed for a while, but that is the new style.

It actually gives me more peace of mind when doing the "filing" method. It gives more protection against filings coming in contact with the diode's more sensitive zones.
 
Its very normal, I have it running at 480mA works great , best thing about LPC's is the joy of having the best beamspecs and you dont even need an expensive lens for it.. just the $3 aixiz works fine! I do believe that these new lpc's have better 650-658nm diodes. They are brighter and can handle 500mA just as good as 826's!
 
I agree about the beam specs. LPCs are just so classic and relatively inexpensive for newcomers to learn with. I didn't know they could be pushed that far though. If that's the case I may have to tweak my Guidesman :whistle:
Do you think they use the 826, though? I mean wouldn't we have started calling them LPC-826 Sleds?
 
I would'nt know, but i wouldnt be surprised because these are made in batches of hundred-thousands.. They would'nt go for dividing it into two smaller batches also tweaking one a tad lower just so the good ole 815 get's it's -25mW decrease. But that's my point of view , it maybe valid.. That could be found out if we have both types on hand and measure the factory set current on them, if they are infact same then proceed to stress testing.. :P
edit: I don't suggest driving them ~500mA is totally safe.. but tbh i dont even follow a duty cycle, sometime i run it untill the heatsink gets very hot ~12min.. it just don't die, Its in a magicstick though.. so it might aswell be magic.. :crackup:
I had one die on me at 350mA.. it really depends on the overall laser build.. i did one build at 600mA in cpu-heatsink,
Which worked awesome, i got bored of the huge size so i decided to remove the diode .. it had 2+hrs on it.. still working strong burning lab-style.. so if you're heatsinking it properly at 450-480mA then no worries.. I will be more than happy if it survives.. I always keep spare one though!
 
Last edited:
I am looking now at the same 815 diode and this cover over the front has me stymied- no real good place to grab w/ tools- the IR was easy to get loose but this red afaik will need to be filed very well to give up the diode. Maybe a tiny piece of blue tape over the window and file on all four sides. And all this SHOULD be done with ESD precautions.. right?

have any success Lokpi? and have several more of these to harvest.. I want to try a dual then quad 815 Labby.
 
Last edited:
I just hold it with needle nose pliers to grip in the left hand and use a cutting plier to grip the other side and cut it very gently.. Apply just enough force on cutting to crack it, at this point it will crack open from the cut, and diode is freed..
 
I'm gonna try to get it open today, I'll update this thread with the results later.
I just hope I don't kill it in the process though :P
 
There's 2 types of heatsinks on the 815. The open and closed face ones like in ur pic. It's completely normal. Use 2 pair of pliers to grab each side and gently twist until you can break the glue free. I've harvested at least hundreds of both the same way and never gotten a dead diodes unless I slipped up and cut a pin off or something. Just be careful..
 
I got it out using a metal saw and some pliers. There where no complications at all :P
Unfortunately I can't test it today since I don't have my safety goggles yet. :/
Also, I completely forgot to wear my ESD protection wrist strap, so I just hope the diode is still working..
 
consdiering the time an aggravation- only to end up with a bent can I will pass forever on that type of 815 sleds-

even after I had ~15% of the can showing it would not just pop out- the metal is far from soft--are we talking about the same sled??== the pins took a beating and the last bit if ribbon will not come off without using an iron plus those pins are extremely short--for 10$ the new ones at olike look damn good to me. i will never get back the 90 min it took from my life. they had to make it like that just to piss me off.++
 
For a couple $ more you can have a virgin LPC-826 diode with long legs. And it can take more power too.
 
Just file or saw a little notch in one of the longer sides of the heatsink, then use 2 sets of pliers or a vice to grab each end, and pull them apart. Once you get it to snap at the file line they're very easy to get out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top