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Some help with fixing my power meter

Joined
Oct 18, 2013
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So ages ago the sensor connection port on my Radiant X4 LPM broke, and today I finally got a replacement connector in the mail and got it all fixed up. Sadly though, when I went to retrieve the sensor, I discovered this:

ENHUQf8l.jpg


The sensor is completely ruined. Not sure how this happened, might have dropped it at one point and never noticed, but I'm wondering now if this is repairable. I tried seeing if I could simply order a replacement sensor, but the link on Radiant's website to their online store just goes to a 404 page.

Looks like is just simply a thermoelectric device, so it could potentially be replaced. I'm hoping someone on here might know what the part number is, or suggest replacements. Its 1.5cm square in size if that helps.

Theres a trim pot on the Radiant X4, I'm willing to bet thats used for calibrating the sensor, so even if its not an identical TEM I should be able to adjust for differences.

Thanks!
 





Man.. BK... It's not your week...:cryyy:

It looks an over temperature or mechanical
force failure.

The trimpot is for the LCD contrast if indeed it's
a Radiant X4 LPM you have.

IIRC...the calibration is done in software...
You will need to get a hold of the original
sellers/manufacturers to get a replacement
and instructions on calibration.
Good luck...

Jerry
 
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Well shite. The original sellers are MIA....

Hmm, perhaps if I can un-glue the TEM from the heatsink it will have a part number on it.

Anyone know a good way to remove thermal glue?
 
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I's always better to buy a product from a
seller that you know will be around when
you need them even if the initial cost is a
bit higher. A bargain is not always a bargain...

Maybe someone on the Forum has some
contact info. IIRC.. The seller was also on
a Flashlight Forum.

He was also on PL with the same UserName
as here.

Jerry
 
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I found him on here, his last post was in 2015.... Not sure I'll be able to get help then.
 
Good luck...
FYI... I have a brand new X4 on the shelf
in the shop with the 3D printed case.

Jerry
 
eh. Its got an Atmel chip and a nice LCD module. Maybe Ill modify it into something else so the X4 body doesn't go to waste.
 
eh. Its got an Atmel chip and a nice LCD module. Maybe Ill modify it into something else so the X4 body doesn't go to waste.
That's not a bad idea...
We often use the LaserBee I and LaserBee II
PCBs in the shop to make prototype MCU
controllers for other than LPM projects.

I have one running our Solder Re-Flow oven.

Jerry
 
Could try setting it on fire... That might work! :thinking:

:crackup: Diachi, you are killing me! That got an audible laugh out of me.

Yeah, there's no way you are going to be able to repair that and get it calibrated too. Mine still works great, but I keep it boxed up when not in use, though I've used it hundreds of times.
 
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It takes a pretty serious impact to cleave a TEC in half like that - a drop sounds likely.

You can replace the TEC with pretty much any similarly sized ones and paint it black. The calibration will likely not be the same, not sure if those have a user accessible calibration menu or not. High temperature paints will offer better damage thresholds.

As for removing the old one, heating it with a torch can soften thermal epoxy and allow you to pop off the remainder with a chisel/screwdriver/etc.
 
Hmm. If I can remove it somewhat intact I might be able to get a model number for the TEC then I could replace it with an identical model..
 
Hmm. If I can remove it somewhat intact I might be able to get a model number for the TEC then I could replace it with an identical model..


Problem then is finding a coating that's both broadband and has a high damage threshold, then you need to re-calibrate it, which you can't do without another calibrated LPM.

Better to buy something else I'd say, though it doesn't hurt to try! :)

Diachi, you are killing me! That got an audible laugh out of me.

Glad you appreciated it! :crackup:
 
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Both excellent points. Even if you somehow manage to find a broadband coating for the TEC, you still have to calibrate it. Can't be done without lasers of known powers.
 
If that was my power meter, I'd forget it myself, abandon all hope!
 


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