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Scuba pointer

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RichiH

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As the forum search yields nothing.. Does anyone have experience with either pointers which are waterproof down to ~40-50 meters or with modding a scuba torch into a scuba pointer?


Thanks!
 





They discontinued that waterproof red, check out days GB he is selling waterproof greenies for 50 bucks or so
 
I highly doubt these will go down to 40-50 meters. Your best bet might be to make your own using one of the diving torches from DX as a host.
 
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Waterproof to 5 meters (per manufacturer) :)
 
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Self-build ones are probably the better choice, if you want something like a pointer for your scuba hunt rifle :D

I'm making one for a friend, using as base one of these 50mW cheap pointers (china type) ..... if you want, i can put here my draws.
 
i wonder why we don't use a medium like water or some other liquid to take beam shots... Come to think of it.... I have never even thought about having a laser underwater.... please post underwater beam shots of whatever you decide to go with!
 
I dont believe any of the water proof lasers sold as such are water proof for scuba use - they might be fine on the bottom of the tub or even the pool, but resistance down to 40+ meters is another story.

I think the best bet would be to take a scuba torch and install the laser inside that, shining out through the existing window. Make sure to get one where you can use the existing switch as well, a rear-clicky would be easier to retrofit than a twisty (which tend to flood anyways).
 
Well, if you want to try to build a waterproof unit yourself, here's a quick draw about the one i made ..... just some precisations.

First, i'm not a mecanical drawer, so, sorry if my draws are a bit messy, it's just not my work, and i made this one here at work in 5 minutes just as example ..... also, the draw is not in scale, for a simple reason; it depend from what materials you can find in your country, so i just can't indicate precise measures for anyone ..... glass windows diameters, type of batteries used, the fact that you can build it yourself (if you have machines), or that you have to depend completely from an external site for have your pieces worked (same as i have to do), all this change the results a lot.

Anyway, basically it was made from a thick anticorodal tube (aluminium is enough, and also less expensive) ..... the inside is worked for fit the module and batteries diameters, then the sides was worked for get the two "steps" where do the o-ring channels, and, on the back side, just the lenght of a screw track for fit the closing part, the front part instead is more deep, cause there's also the space for the thickness of the glass (about this, sorry, in the draw i wrote 10mm of thickness for error, in reality it's a 6mm thichness glass, but i already saved it as jpg before notice the error)

The two inside o-ring chanels must be worked with care, cause they grant the waterproof keep, the one on the front ring screw (that was take from a piece of aluminium tube, making screw track on the outside) can also be less precise, it don't grant any waterproof, it's just for not chip the glass disk when you tighten the screw.

About the glass window, here isn't easy to find them, also less easy if you want them AR coated, so i partially solved the problem finding an old glass plate from a scrap old photocopier (the ones that was using incandescent lamps), that have a sort of AR coating on the back side, for prevent the light reflected from the glass ..... so, at least, also if non professionally graded, there's an AR coating on the laser side ..... then asked to a worker that made works in glass, and have a glass drill, to cut me out some discs from it ..... glass holes are made with cup bits, so the results are nice disks, almoat all the times perfectly at measure (otherwise, you can also carry the disks to an optic shop and ask them to grind the disks in the measure you need, with their precision machines it take just some minutes).

The back closing part just have a hole for make pass through a cable with a waterproof pushswitch, and a resalt for fit a disk of pcb inside (the inner part) ..... the disk of pcb, dual layer, must be worked for have at one side, the copper a little less of the diameter of the disk, and a hole for solder a wire, the other side must have a space around the hole of the wire, and the copper all around, where it rest on the side of the channel, and where must be glued with electroconductive glue after you soldered the wires of the switch cable (can also modify the part for put inside a magnetic switch with no cables and no holes, if you want to have a on-off switch instead a push-on cable switch)

If you need, i can try to made some better draws, but i need some time for this (it's supposing i'm working for pay taxes, here, after all :p :D)
 

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I was telling my friend about my interests in scuba diving. So I have this friend that wants to get into scuba diving and she is looking into some diving courses. The problem is she has tinnitus. Can people with tinnitus go scuba diving? Also, will scuba diving cause her more problems with the tinnitus? I did tell her to consult with her doctor.
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