Laser builders, help!

[IsaacT]

I have been trying to put together my 445. I finally got all of the parts, and I was ready to put it together. However, I fear i may not be able to build it... you see my Soldering Iron is very low end, the Microboost Drive is a giant PITA to solder to, and this is only my second electronics project. In the 3 hours I was outside trying to put it together, I was only able to solder ONE lead. So, now I fear I must ask if any of yall put together lasers for people. If so, what do yall charge? I can send wire, and all the parts. I wish I could do this myself, but my experience is low, my funds are low(so no new Iron for awhile), and I don't want to ruin it.

Anyone?

Peace,
Isaac

PS-Happy Gobble Day

 

[mattmagic100]

what host are you using?

 

[Mohrenberg]

giving up that easily?

what problems are you having soldering the driver?

Are you using solder flux?
It's easier to have the soldering tip on one side of the driver, heat the pad up and then just slide the lead through the hole from the other side.

You also need a vice or something else to hold it with. I still don't understand why we only have 2 hands....

 

[Benm]

Isnt the microboost and SMD driver? No holes to slide pins through then, and from the look of it, soldering those coponents on will not be easy for the novice at all.

 

[DTR]

The microboost has holes.

Are you using flux?

I like to strip my wires no more than the depth of the hole. Add a little flux to the tip of the wire and put it in the hole from the underside. When it is in you should maybe be able to drag your fingernail on the wire sticking out no more. Get a solder blob on the tip of your iron. Then hold the blob over the hole for a second or two and watch the solder get sucked as it makes a nice clean and secure connection.

 

[IsaacT]

hm, I hadn't thought about that two sided thing...good idea! My main problem is just getting the solder to stick to the pads, rather than pop off of the board....maybe I should tin both sides of the pad?

 

[Blord]

Solder wire contains very small amount of flux. Just enough to attach tin to blank wire or pcb. You don't need extra flux added because flux is very corrosive to metal. It will eats the metal away after long time.
In my early days I use extra flux from a jar but later on I learn how to solder without flux.

Short howto :
Soldering Guide

Long howto :
How To Solder - Soldering Tutorial

 

[IsaacT]

Okay, here is an update: I got the wires to stick via the sticking-them-through-the-holes method suggested above(if the system allows me, you get a +1 btw). I got the diode press fitted in, and now I just have to connect the pins. for all you laserchatters out there: /me crosses fingers. I just need to figure out what I should do with the three holed red thing that is on the diode for esd precautions(i think?)

 

[DTR]

Okay, here is an update: I got the wires to stick via the sticking-them-through-the-holes method suggested above(if the system allows me, you get a +1 btw). I got the diode press fitted in, and now I just have to connect the pins. for all you laserchatters out there: /me crosses fingers. I just need to figure out what I should do with the three holed red thing that is on the diode for esd precautions(i think?)

The red thing is a spacer for the diode to sit in the array snugly. It is not needed. I usually remove it. Just pretin the wires and then hold them to the diode pins and do a quick touch with your iron. Make sure to remember to put you shrink tube on before you solder the wire to the diode.:beer:

 

[IsaacT]

Okay, I got it all put together, but now I have another question....I have 1 CR123, but the laser host is Ehgemus's 5 Groove fit for an 18650. The Cr123 is almost out of juice(haven't charged it in a good while), and when I put it in and use a piece of metal to link the negative side with the side of the host, nothing happens. I noticed the battery is rated at 880mAh and 3.7V. With it almost dead, is there just not enough power left to make it lase? Or does that mean something went wrong in the building process? I have an 18650 on the way but this may just kill me (x_x)

 

[DTR]

Do you have a charger for the battery you have? Also did you check your connections making sure that the diode is connected to the two wires that are closer together in more centered than the battery connections that are out toward the edges. You can also check with a multimeter that your host is supplying power.

 

[weidmark]

The red thing is a spacer for the diode to sit in the array snugly. It is not needed. I usually remove it. Just pretin the wires and then hold them to the diode pins and do a quick touch with your iron. Make sure to remember to put you shrink tube on before you solder the wire to the diode.:beer:

I've heard people say pretin before... does this just mean put some solder on the flaminpyro wire? Also you say just a touch with the iron should do... but not for me. What is the power of your iron? Mine is 15w or 30w (i am currently using 15w)

 

[DTR]

I've heard people say pretin before... does this just mean put some solder on the flaminpyro wire? Also you say just a touch with the iron should do... but not for me. What is the power of your iron? Mine is 15w or 30w (i am currently using 15w)

Just dip your wire in a hot solder blob and pull it out. It should not have excess solder on it just a nice shinny look. I use a butane Weller iron that has adjustable heat.

 

[weidmark]

Just dip your wire in a hot solder blob and pull it out. It should not have excess solder on it just a nice shinny look. I use a butane Weller iron that has adjustable heat.

Oh ok. When I was pretining I had excess solder on the wire. Thats good to know. Maybe i should try the 30W setting on my iron and see if a quick touch will attach the wire to the diode pins. I'm just afraid it may be too hot.

 

[millirad]

Keep on working. We are waiting for your beam shot.

 

[IsaacT]

Okay, everything looks good, I will charge the CR123 up. So a CR123 rated for 880mAh can power a 445/Microboost running at 1A?