yobresal
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This is a photo and video tutorial that uses the LG 10X Blu-ray burner. The process is very similar with all other drives however the heatsink around the diode on some drives may require different methods to remove the diode. Testing is a huge part of any build. I test the current of the driver before I solder it on, I also test the diode. Test as much as possible as you go to prevent getting to the end with a non-functioning laser and no clue which step you messed up. If you do not have a dummy load you can get a preset current driver. If you are using a linear driver you can start at the low end and connect a DMM while you adjust the pot while keeping an eye on the current. This tutorial will not focus on testing although it is very important. Okay here we go.
Here is the drive in/out of the box purchased from Best Buy for $179.99 I had an $80 gift card otherwise I would have gone to Newegg.com for $159.99 +$1.99 shipping
First thing you do is unscrew the plate covering the internals.
You should see something like this. Remove that big green Circuit board and reveal the sled which holds the precious laser diode.
Here is what the sled looks like.
Next you will pull the metal case up to reveal the laser diode. You will need to cut that brown PCB ribbon away from the circuit board but leave about a half inch connected to the diode. The heatsink/diode assembly pushes out of the sled easily (depending on the drive)
This next part may or may not be possible depending on your drive. It is easy with this drive.
You will need to get to pliers on similar tools and grab a hold of each side of the heatsink around the diode. Be sure you do not grab the diode pins or any part of the diode for that matter. Then twist in opposite directions. Watch this video.
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/4012/snapx.mp4
This is what you will have now. Be very careful with this little guy.
The next step requires pressing the diode into an aixiz module...that is unless you are pressing it directly into your host. There are many different methods of doing this. Whichever method you choose just be sure not to damage the pins. Also be sure that you get the diode pressed all the way in and straight. Personally I use channel locks.
For the next step you will need to remove the PCB ribbon. You can do so by applying a blob of solder to your soldering iron and then touching that blob to the solder joints on the diode pins. Do this quickly and with a HOT soldering iron and it will be easy. Use tweezers to grab the PCB and remove it as you apply the solder blob. Wear eye protection as this could be potentially hazardous.
Watch this Video.
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/4128274/pcb_removal_on_laser_diode/
Next step is to solder the diode to the circuit board. First bend the case pin up as this will help you through the next few steps. In this example I am using the Rkcstr driver. The laser diode pin polarity is clearly written on the board. You may want to tin the solder pads first (that means to get a bit of solder and put it on the pads with your soldering iron...just a little) Also it is imperative that you solder the driver on straight.
After you have successfully soldered the pins to the driver you will need to solder a black and red wire to their corresponding places on the other end of the driver. The driver is clearly marked with a - and + sign. Both wires should be around 2/3 an inch. You will also need to decided if you want your laser to be case positive or negative. That just changes which way you put the batteries in. In this case I chose case positive because all my other lasers are case positive. You will need to solder whichever wire you choose to the case pin of the diode. In the image you will see the red wire is soldered to the diode.
Next you will screw the module end cap over the driver making sure to let the black wire (in this case) through the hole. You will need to provide insulation over the end of the module. I used scotch tape as well as electrical tape. I then soldered a small spring to the wire that is exiting the module. I also glued the spring to the electrical tape to hold it steady.
If you have made it this far go ahead and install that Biotch into your host. The slide in module hosts that I recommend are the Eghemus hosts. They are spectacular. Good job you did it....or nice try, keep at it.
Here is the drive in/out of the box purchased from Best Buy for $179.99 I had an $80 gift card otherwise I would have gone to Newegg.com for $159.99 +$1.99 shipping
First thing you do is unscrew the plate covering the internals.
You should see something like this. Remove that big green Circuit board and reveal the sled which holds the precious laser diode.
Here is what the sled looks like.
Next you will pull the metal case up to reveal the laser diode. You will need to cut that brown PCB ribbon away from the circuit board but leave about a half inch connected to the diode. The heatsink/diode assembly pushes out of the sled easily (depending on the drive)
This next part may or may not be possible depending on your drive. It is easy with this drive.
You will need to get to pliers on similar tools and grab a hold of each side of the heatsink around the diode. Be sure you do not grab the diode pins or any part of the diode for that matter. Then twist in opposite directions. Watch this video.
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/4012/snapx.mp4
This is what you will have now. Be very careful with this little guy.
The next step requires pressing the diode into an aixiz module...that is unless you are pressing it directly into your host. There are many different methods of doing this. Whichever method you choose just be sure not to damage the pins. Also be sure that you get the diode pressed all the way in and straight. Personally I use channel locks.
For the next step you will need to remove the PCB ribbon. You can do so by applying a blob of solder to your soldering iron and then touching that blob to the solder joints on the diode pins. Do this quickly and with a HOT soldering iron and it will be easy. Use tweezers to grab the PCB and remove it as you apply the solder blob. Wear eye protection as this could be potentially hazardous.
Watch this Video.
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/4128274/pcb_removal_on_laser_diode/
Next step is to solder the diode to the circuit board. First bend the case pin up as this will help you through the next few steps. In this example I am using the Rkcstr driver. The laser diode pin polarity is clearly written on the board. You may want to tin the solder pads first (that means to get a bit of solder and put it on the pads with your soldering iron...just a little) Also it is imperative that you solder the driver on straight.
After you have successfully soldered the pins to the driver you will need to solder a black and red wire to their corresponding places on the other end of the driver. The driver is clearly marked with a - and + sign. Both wires should be around 2/3 an inch. You will also need to decided if you want your laser to be case positive or negative. That just changes which way you put the batteries in. In this case I chose case positive because all my other lasers are case positive. You will need to solder whichever wire you choose to the case pin of the diode. In the image you will see the red wire is soldered to the diode.
Next you will screw the module end cap over the driver making sure to let the black wire (in this case) through the hole. You will need to provide insulation over the end of the module. I used scotch tape as well as electrical tape. I then soldered a small spring to the wire that is exiting the module. I also glued the spring to the electrical tape to hold it steady.
If you have made it this far go ahead and install that Biotch into your host. The slide in module hosts that I recommend are the Eghemus hosts. They are spectacular. Good job you did it....or nice try, keep at it.
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