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Built my Violet Laser, but its not up to par...

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Aug 22, 2009
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Well I've finally been able to build my "Blue ray" laser from an xbox 360 sled. My heart skipped a beat when I saw it light up, but then it hit me, that it really is not as bright as I expected, nor does the dot seem to be as big as I expected. I have tried adjusting the lens on the module and it currently seems to be about as focused as I can get it for a distance of about 1.5-2 ft, but it doesnt seem to be focused enough to actually burn whether it be a black dot on a paper towel or on a balloon. . Mabey is 99 milliamps too little to burn? The batteries are putting out about 4.44 volts. Im desperate for some suggestions.....

heres the youtube....


TogaLive
 





Not enough volts, according to Rog's website, Blu-Rays need about 4.5V ALONE, and the driver itself takes up power as well(~3V Idr how much the Rkcstr uses). I use a 9V for my PHR with the Rkcstr driver, and it has been working great.

It can be done - Laser driver
 
You will need around 8.5 to 9 volts to power a PHR-803T though a rckstr driver. Otherwise, 99ma should be fine for popping balloons and smoking darkened paper towels (assuming the module is properly focused).
 
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Tried a 9 volt and its much brighter, it lit the match instantly! But ive heard people suggesting to not use them before although I forgot the reason...any idea on why I shouldnt?

In any case, thanks for all the help!
 
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Tried a 9 volt and its much brighter! But ive heard people suggesting to not use them before although I forgot the reason...any idea on why I shouldnt?
Nice to hear you got it working.
Yeah, I have heard people also say 9V are not great to use, because they wont last all that long I believe. But I'm satisfied with the battery life I get with mine.
 
You could also toss 3 10440 batteries in that AAA holster you got there but you should first make a small modification to the Rckstr driver to allow the extra voltage.
 
Nice to hear you got it working.
Yeah, I have heard people also say 9V are not great to use, because they wont last all that long I believe. But I'm satisfied with the battery life I get with mine.

Will it shorten the life of the diode? Thats really all im worried about...

As far as heat sinks go, im still looking for a good one I can make at home, time to read around :) Any suggestions?
 
No. You're using a constant current driver. no matter if you put there 8 9 10 11 or 12V, the current to the diode will be the same, the extra voltage will be dissipated by the driver.

at 4V your driver wasn't able to deliver 99mA to the diode, that's why it was dim, at 9V the current will be 99mA, (and if you understood what I just said, you'll note that at 12V current is still 99mA ;) ). 99mA is a conservative current, your diode will last long at this current, although of course it would last longer (if not forever xd) at the very small current you were driving it at.

If you want an advise, turn the current to 120-130mA. The diode will laugh several hours of use (mine has almost half a year and still lasing at full power), and in case it ever dies, just buy a new one for 10$ xD

Yours,
Albert
 
Will it shorten the life of the diode? Thats really all im worried about...

As far as heat sinks go, im still looking for a good one I can make at home, time to read around :) Any suggestions?
I've had mine for months with no problems with it. For cheap/DIY heatsinks, you can use nuts and washers from the hardware store. I think I used 1/2inch nuts and grinded the inside down till I got a nice fit, and used thermal grease(stuff they put on CPU's to keep them cool) to make it better. PHR's really don't get all that hot tho.
 
I am just going by the recommended usage instructions that are provided by Rckstr. I have not tried going over 12V myself so i do not know if it will do any damage to the driver. It is an easy mod so I always do it if I go over 12V.

"Input voltage must be LESS than 12VDC. This is a limitation of the input voltage polarity protection and can be disabled by removal of one component and shorting two pads to allow for up to 15VDC, or you can use rectifier diodes (ex. 1N4001) to drop input voltage low enough"
 
The negative side with 9V batteries is that the cheaper brands often are unable to feed more than 80-90mA's. But since you are running it on that current anyways there is no real downside.
 
I recommend what TJ and yobresal say: use 3X 3.6V Lithiums, and throw a rectifier diode in series with the + input of the driver.
 
The negative side with 9V batteries is that the cheaper brands often are unable to feed more than 80-90mA's. But since you are running it on that current anyways there is no real downside.

Yes, 9V batts are 6 AAAA batts wired in series inside a small tin, very small batteries that are not capable of too much current draw. Best to go with a lithium alternative as mentioned before ;)
 
I use the 3 x 10440 setup. For the 12V driver issue, as Meatball, TJ, and yobresal said, a 1N400X diode in between the battery positive and the positive connection to the driver will drop the voltage for you. You should be fine at 120mA, I abuse my PHR's, mine run between 150 and 180mA, shorter life, but good burning.
 


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