Search results

Cant the short case pin be soldered to the negative diode pin when using a flexdrive? Why did you go with the wire?

As i understand it, one could still connect the case pin to the negative pin when using a flexdrive, i think i understand now, duh!! The wire might have to be used when using something other than a flexdrive, right?

How about pin layout? is this the same from a130 to a140? Mine has a case pin, according to my multimeter!!

I didnt know if the modes were a function of the driver or the switch, as long as its a function of the driver, it doesnt matter. Thanks

or maybe this:DealExtreme: $18.90 UltraFire C3 Stainless Steel Cree P4 LED Flashlight (AA/14500) DealExtreme: $24.57 Ultrafire Stainless Steel C3 Cree Q5 5-Mode LED Flashlight (14500)

here are the links: DealExtreme: $24.57 Ultrafire Stainless Steel C3 Cree Q5 5-Mode LED Flashlight (14500). DealExtreme: $18.90 UltraFire C3 Stainless Steel Cree P4 LED Flashlight (AA/14500)

Ive noticed that dx has 2 of these in stainless, one being single mode and the other a 5 mode. The price difference is pretty large and i was wondering are the tail clickys the same? Are the modes part of the driver circuit?(not used for the light when used as a host)

i guess i was confusing laser output measured in mw with electrical ma, thanks.

Will do, who makes the best silicone glue or epoxy these days? Im thinking of not having any wires at all.

using a wire through the hole in the housing and through the spring for positive? One of the industrial line lasers i have her that i raided for parts and adventure, used pieces of foam to locate its driver in the center of its host, one on each side of a cylindrical housing. The unit is a laser...

thanks, thats what i was thinking as well.

Thanks, ive done an 803t, it has more of a flat backside. It looks like i may have to add extensions to the diodes leads, it looks like they do not protrude at all from the housing, or is that just the photo?

Ive looked everywhere on here for an answer to this, but, how well do the long open can diodes accept having a driver soldered directly to the diode? I was thinking of using one with a spring setup.

I already have a 803t built, no problems with what i've learned from reading on here already, just had a small question with ohms law, sorry ive offended.

i guess my fluke just auto ranges in mv mode, im getting the correct readings for a blue ray that ive just finished, i just couldnt figure out how setting the driver around 350 plus mv was equaling 220mw output, is it the loss through the lens? If i were to set the driver on a test load at those...

Who, in your opinion, is second best? Or who can you trust on the green modules?

Also, can a driver be set using a test load with an input voltage to the driver that is different from the final host output voltage. Say, setting the output voltage of either a rkcstr or lava boost drive, with 9v input to the driver, but using say a 7.2v host?

i could set it that high? using a multimeter in mv range? or is that using an amprobe? Im using a test load to set power.

A tradeoff of life yet high power, that particular diode is advertised as 300mw, so say i could drive it at 250mw for a very long time. A flexdrive could be used for lesser voltage hosts, correct? I guess what im asking as far as the lens question is, i seem to see the opinions on the...

Are any of these just modules?