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Do Open Can Blu Ray diode exist?

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I was just curious because seen this on ebay a Open Can Blu Ray diode but i think it might be fake! What do you guys think? or Know!
this is what they are saying that it is: Burning 150mW 405nm Open Can Bare Violet Laser diode and its $59...
 

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I don't think so. (don't quote me on this though)
Perhaps, it is possible to make a closed can into an open can by simply removing the glass window / metal casing ???
 
Thats what i was thinking! Plus it looks like the casing was removed, because of the silver ring around the diode !
 
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For some reason the glass windows in PHR-803T diodes are really fragile, I've broken several while harvesting.. It's not hard to remove the can, and it looks like that's exactly what that is... If you look at the pic you can see a steel ring around the base of the can... If that were really manufactured as an open can diode it wouldn't have that there.. This is certainly just a regular old PHR that's been de-canned.
 
Ok, I am aware that an open can diode is vulnerable to breaking etc, but handles heat better. does decanning a phr make it survive better at higher mA? i.e. 150ma? I wouldn't think it would or people would be decanning them left and right. Curious about this.

StridAst
 
Tthe concept of decanning is a bit scary to me. How do you remove the metal can, which is made of the very hard metal alloy Kovar, if I recall, without damaging the laser die or the fine wires soldered to it? Just for fun, i tried it on an old 5.6 IR diode from a CD player and successfully destroyed everything in it even though I tried to be very careful and peeling the metal away from the core...

I think people who successfully de-can a diode are either wizards, ninjas or extremely small people with equally small tools.

-Robert
 
O come now I decan diodes at will, there's no secret to doing it, wish I had a better camera I would make you guys a video, the only reason I do it is because of broken windows, can't leave them in there. my understanding is it's not good to remove the can because contamination will shorten diode life.

Peace All Pyro... :eg:

Tthe concept of decanning is a bit scary to me. How do you remove the metal can, which is made of the very hard metal alloy Kovar, if I recall, without damaging the laser die or the fine wires soldered to it? Just for fun, i tried it on an old 5.6 IR diode from a CD player and successfully destroyed everything in it even though I tried to be very careful and peeling the metal away from the core...

I think people who successfully de-can a diode are either wizards, ninjas or extremely small people with equally small tools.

-Robert
 
The monk had some micros of a decanned PHR next to a 6x...look around the quality was superb.
 
my understanding is it's not good to remove the can because contamination will shorten diode life.
Peace All Pyro... :eg:

Flaminpyro is correct.

The higher energy 405nm beam will decompose materials in the path,
and deposit them on the laser output mirror.

A decanned BR diode will work fine,
but is more subject to foreign materials between the diode and the lens.

LarryDFW
 
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The reason open can reds can operate at a slightly higher power than their canned counterparts is that the die heatsink (where the die is mounted) is larger and able to conduct the heat generated by the die away to the diode mount faster than an equivalent unit with a smaller die mount inside the can. Decanning the diodes does not result in a higher power capability, because the die mount is the same. The only result is higher fragility and susceptibility to contamination.
 
This is akin to vapor deposition :thinking: we used to 24k vapor dep plexiglass discs in a vacuume chamber, it would take us 24hrs of pumping to get enough of the air molecules out of that chamber befor we could turn on the juice to the sputtering gun.
Flaminpyro is correct.

The higher energy 405nm beam will decompose materials in the path and deposit them on the laser output mirror.

A decanned BR diode will work fine, but is more subject to foreign materials between the diode and the lens.

LarryDFW
 
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Uhm, i decanned a pair of PHR ones, and never had problems, but not tried it with 6X (and not got an 8X yet :p)
 
decanning is usually not a great idea. the output facet will degrades fairly rapidly. I did a test one time that caused about a 50-75% increase in threshold. This was with a completely exposed die though. if the diode is more or less sealed in a module with a lens in front there should just be an initial degredation until the water vapor and other contaminants in the small area around the diode do their damage.
 
I know, I know, Sorry for resurrecting an old thread. But I promise I'm not spamming. I just didn't feel the need to open a new thread.

I just de-canned a diode from an LG 10X (cracked window).
Is there any more info available on how the diode will function after the die is exposed?
I have yet to power up the diode (waiting on a driver) and am a bit anxious about how this diode will perform, assuming it survived surgery.
I think I did a very good job "de-canning" it, especially since it is the first time I have attempted to do so, but I am still nervous.

I may de-can a PHR and do a sort of "can transplant" with the 10X, but I may just see how the diode works sans can first.

Those of you who have experience with open can violets, would you care to share?
 
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