Exerd
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- Joined
- Jan 2, 2010
- Messages
- 448
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I had made mention of the Shark Buck 2A driver a while back when people were looking for high amperage drivers to power A140 diodes. I just wanted to say that I have had a chance to use this driver now for some time and it has become one of my favorite drivers.
I currently have the 2A version, but there is also a 1A and a 3A version that use different resistors for the max current setting.
The driver has a potentiometer that provides very precise adjustment of output current from 10mA all the way up to 2A. This single driver for $27 can power just about everything in most peoples diode collections.
I have been using the Shark Buck with output set at 1750mA, powering an A140 diode and using 2x18650 batteries in series for supply. In bench testing at this amperage, the driver barely gets warm. The driver has a copper heat sinking plate on the back that is in a U-shape. This will provide excellent thermal transfer into a driver heat sink should you choose to use one.
Since I had the room inside the test bed laser, I placed the driver on an old aluminum northbridge sink from a computer motherboard. It will stay very cool this way.
For anyone interested, I give it a thumbs up.
Remember, this is a buck driver, and that means that your input voltage must be higher than the asking output voltage.
Sandwich Shoppe
Shark Buck in 2x18650 lab build:
I currently have the 2A version, but there is also a 1A and a 3A version that use different resistors for the max current setting.
The driver has a potentiometer that provides very precise adjustment of output current from 10mA all the way up to 2A. This single driver for $27 can power just about everything in most peoples diode collections.
I have been using the Shark Buck with output set at 1750mA, powering an A140 diode and using 2x18650 batteries in series for supply. In bench testing at this amperage, the driver barely gets warm. The driver has a copper heat sinking plate on the back that is in a U-shape. This will provide excellent thermal transfer into a driver heat sink should you choose to use one.
Since I had the room inside the test bed laser, I placed the driver on an old aluminum northbridge sink from a computer motherboard. It will stay very cool this way.
For anyone interested, I give it a thumbs up.
Remember, this is a buck driver, and that means that your input voltage must be higher than the asking output voltage.
Sandwich Shoppe


Shark Buck in 2x18650 lab build:
