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So in this schematic the transistor can remain where it is right now? And having the common ground being 9V is not a problem for my controller, it can handle up to 12V so i'm safe there. You did say there were more elegant ways of doing a TTL driver, do you have an example/schematic?

So instead of the optocoupler and transistor being where they are in the schematic I should move them in between the power source and the IN pin on the LM350? And I can use a TIP122 and a 6N138 for this, or would a TIP122 suffice?

Hey LPF, I've been working on a CNC laser engraver lately. Everything is up and running for the laser itself, and for that to happen it needs to gain a TTL input. I'm using a LM317 DDL driver (LM350 to be precise) to supply the diode with power. As far as I have understood TTL basically...

The 3A version it is then. The laser is handheld while he activates the laser with the switch mounted in the box/case at his feet, so technically my commissioner IS the engraver. :whistle: The type of switch will be one of those momentary guitar stomp switches. I actually finished the empty...

I am going to use a momentary switch in a case placed at the feet to switch the power on/off towards the driver, for the laser will be in a sort of pen style enclosure so he can lase without turning it on/off with his hands. And I have been looking for a 9V PSU, but besides from crappy AC...

I have gotten a request from a friend of mine to build him a laser engraver for wood projects, he wants this laser to mostly sign his projects and to add some small details. Now I have recently built meself a 1W A140 in a C6 host with a premade driver. After searching on the forum and other...

And here they are! The first shot is from the laser's angle towards the target (my future wooden CNC Router bed) The second one is aiming towards the laser It was quite tough getting the beam on camera with my DSLR, getting the settings just right is quite the search. ;) :thanks:

It's alive! :D I received my new diode today, after some cleaning of my workbench (which was overdue a long time ago) I placed the new diode into the module and then in the host. It fired up without a problem, no dimming issues or weird flickerings. Even the lens-less laser looks great (i'm of...

Ah, yes I have. I just have not posted any pictures of that connection before. Otherwise there would be no connection towards the negative side of the batteries if I am not mistaken. Edit: The solder blob on the postive side of the driver is so that my batteries can make a connection...

This is indeed a C6 host, and I have not soldered the pill to the brass ring, no. When i extracted the driver i used a small metal screwdriver which I covered in superglue a while back. I could fit the screwdriver through the holes in the pill and pushed the ring out by using force on the driver...

The driver is fine, now that I have insulated the edges from the brass ring it is keeping a steady 1.25A with my test load. Now to put the diode back on, here's hoping for the best. Edit: Just reattached the diode, still the same result. I guess I'll have to buy another diode, which I will...

I think I found the part where it might short the connection. It seems to be right in the front next to the spool, and possibly even in the back next to the R200 resistor. For now i have covered those parts in superglue, as soon as it dries i'm hooking it back up to my test load and see if...

Oh rats, guess it's back to the shopping cart for me then. But I'll hold on to this diode just in case. That I did not know about this driver, do you also happen to know what area it is that needs to be insulated?

Hello LPF, :wave: I have recently started building lasers as part of my endless DIY hobby list. Now after some carefully reading and researching I settled on building my first laser in a host. I had decided on a "Aurora" C6 host from DX, For the driver I had settled on this 17mm 1.25 driver...