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Hello So I haven't built a laser for over a year now, and I decided that I wanted to get back into it. So I have a very noob question; when wiring a driver, the V+ goes to the positive of the battery right? I have a Ben-Boost driver, and I just couldn't remember. Regards

Yes, Qumefox i think you are probably right. The diode came in and i wired it up and it lased just fine. Also, i realized i was using 1n4001 diodes for my test load, i realized it when they were getting pretty hot. Thanks.

So I measured the current across the resistor, and got a very weird number. The driver was outputting 660 mA. It should be around 1250 mA. So now I am thinking that the batteries cannot supply the 1250 mA.

Ok, so I recently purchased a Mohgasm 1.25A driver. As i was waiting for a diode, I decided to check the voltage output of the driver. I put in 2 cr123's for about 8.4v input, and out came 7.8 volts. Wouldn't this kill my diode? I was worried because I am pretty cash strapped and don't want to...

Ok. So I decided to push mine at 700mA. I have another question, should I use an AR coated acrylic or a glass lens? I see that many have used acrylic but doesn't the lens melt?

Ok, so I've read a LOT of threads on these somewhat new Mitsubishi 635nm diodes. I see that some have been driven as high as 1A, and as low as around 500mA. So i was planning on building one, because I just love that color, and was wondering what would be the optimal current for a very long...

So I have two laser kits, the Pocket Mini and a Trustfire 801. So correct if im wrong, but from what I have read and understood, to make the laser run with a flexdrive I can just remove the stock driver components, drill a hole and solder a wire in the hole for the positive input for driver. And...

ok because i bought your diode with leads and wanted not to clip any of the wires and i couldn't really bridge the case and negative.

here the pic

So instead of bridging the case pin and negative on a flexdrive for a 1.5w 445nm diode, can i just have a wire going from the casepin to the negative input? If you don't get what i mean i have a (crappy) image attached of what I am saying. thanks

i was thinking of a LPC-826 at 500mA with a flexdrive. I will be using one 18650.

I was searching around the thread, and I noticed a lot of people heatsink drivers. I couldn't find a definite answer for my question by searching, so here it is. At what mA would I need to heatsink it? Thanks

so you do nothing with the un-used pin? So from what i have read the case pin on the lpcs is already negative?

So I was going to build a handheld laser using this host in a pocketmini host. Im an not really sure how to wire it up. This would be my first handheld. I am using a flexdrive and i believe that you just solder the + to the + of the driver and vice versa.

oh ok thanks

ok so i also read about esd and how bridging the case pin to the negative protects it. If i did isolate the heatsink electrically, would i need to do that? Also what would be the easiest way to isolate the heatsink? thanks

Ok so I've been searching a lot around the forums, and I cant seem to find a solid answer. I want to build a lab laser using a FlexDrive v5 at 1.25a and i dont really know whether i should bridge the case pin and negative, or not. So would it work it i just wired the cathode and the anode of the...

heh yeah i bought a lot of stuff from your site very quick shipping + quality. Would i just bond the module to the sink with thermal epoxy used for bonding cpu chips to heatsinks?

Ok so i salvaged a heatsink out of an old computer, and i just want your advice/reactions and how you think it would perform. Im using this for a lab 1 watt 445nm laser. edit: also do you think it would absorb a lot of heat? Could it increase the duty cycles substantially? Thanks!