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Thanks for your input, I'll definitely check those out if I feel like I need focus to burn more effectively..

That makes sense, do you think you could provide an example of what precisely you are thinking about so that I could be sure we're on the same page? Thanks!

Ah I see, that would be ideal if possible... Would you imagine that it would be compatible with the focusing module and lens from an aixiz housing if it indeed can be removed?

Hello, In my previous builds I have always stuck to the standard Aixiz modules for my diodes to sit in. But I wanted to throw together a fairly simple 532nm laser and it seemed like the easiest route to go would be to pick up one of these modules from DX.com which is on it's way now - 200mW...

I'm pretty confident all of my solder joints were solid. Like I said I tested everything thoroughly with my DMM beforehand. About the only thing I couldn't have tested was the connection to the diode pins itself, but those looked good as well. I feel like you're idea is more plausible...

Okay, well I see why you guys aren't fans of the SF-AW 405 nm... I just fried mine :( Only at 165 mA too. I'm not really sure what went wrong, it was weird from the beginning. At first it was very dim. Then I turned it off and back on and it really lit up then. Powered it for 30 seconds and then...

Ok, it's just frustrating because it seems like I get different info on every single thread I click. These guys are saying that you should just keep it under 350 mA and you're set - LINK Well I got the whole sled so I'm mainly doing this for the 405nm. The 650nm is just a bonus at this point.

Well what would you consider "long"? I don't plan on using it extremely often so sacrificing a little life to improve the power seems like an acceptable option assuming the life loss isn't drastic. I thought that they don't fry until about 350mW so pushing 200mA didn't seem that bad.

Which one are you running at 150-200mA, the 405nm or the 650nm? I was planning on running my 405nm around 200mA and I haven't thought much about the 650nm yet. Also, what would you say is the easiest way to extract them? I'm waiting for my sf-aw210 sled to ship so I'm trying to figure out the...

So are you saying that my 47 uF might be a bit much or is the 1 uF just a minimum value? Should I consider changing or is it good the way it is? I don't feel like the 47 uF has been an issue but I haven't received my diode in the mail yet.

Ok thanks... Yea I've got a 47 uF on my output so I figured that should be big enough. The .47 micro I was talking about was just for my input cap. I wasn't even aware that caps were also used on the input as well before you guys mentioned it so I wasn't sure about my values, but it sounds like...

Ahh ok, so it was more of a power issue. I'm gonna look into upgrading my power source but for right now what I've got should work well enough without getting too hot or anything. I'm running out of room quickly but I think I'm gonna move up to a bigger project box to house everything. My...

Thanks HIMNL9, after going over each part of the driver and load with my DMM I started seeing how there just wasn't enough voltage there to work. I was just so thrown off for a while because my understanding of the "It Can Be Done" page was that 9V was all that would be needed and any extra...

Ok, I think I fixed the problem. Looks like you had the right idea Kevlar, thank you so much. When I first tried your fix it was actually worse than the beginning. But then I tried expanding upon it by putting about 11V to the input and BAM! everything started working like a charm immediately...

I'm pretty sure my breadboard is solid, I use it for school. And I've been measuring the input voltage right on the pin with reference to the ground and it's been around 8-8.5V everytime. That should be more than enough for the LM317 to work. The only thing that I can think of is that maybe my...

Sorry about the picture, here's a closer up shot: Link There are other pics of the same thing in there as well. The orange wire is connected to the positive terminal of my source. You can see the three resistors in parallel connected to the middle pin of the LM317. The other side of those...

Ok, I gave that a try... well sorta, I already had a 4 AAA battery holder and a 2 AA battery holder so I hooked those together. The source voltage was pretty decent, about 8.5V, but once again when I hooked it up to the circuit the current flow was crap and the voltage across the reference pins...

hmmm interesting, that never even dawned on me. I thought the LM317's only required a certain voltage to operate properly. I'll give the AA's a try, thanks

Hello, This is my first post on the forum. I've built a laser before but now I'm on summer break from school so I have time for a more in-depth project. I've ordered a SF-AW210 Blu-Ray diode which is a few days away so I've just been working on the driver using a test load in the mean time. My...