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Are those Rayfoss ones truly 100 percent duty cycle? Likewise, the Olike to???????????? Are the internals of either one also removable for later transition into a different host? I need a 200mW red, but am considering sticking it into something different, possibly trying peltier cooling..

I keep trying to catch a glint from the reflectors in my 16". Haven't seen one yet... Saw the disco ball in space though.. Maybe I can use J-track and point my laser at that, and have a better chance...

And the beam width is how many miles wide on the moon? I tried to calculate that once using the basic divergance of an average laser, 1.5mRad 240,000 miles. or a spot about 385 miles wide.. My Green diverges to about 5 feet at 1 google map mile... Uses a building and a friend with a tape...

Thanks Mike. That sums up a lot. I will choose my words more carefully when it comes to voltage or current. Usually my diode tests just used a few LED's in parallel as a dummy load to drop current. Since I had 800mA I figured a few would do it Now I want to do it right.

Thank you.. The only reason I asked this question was because, 1. the drivers you listed above were the very thing I read since I am building my own driver for a project, and i saw the different voltages in them and was a little confused.. 2. been out of the laser tinkering hobby for a few...

I was under the assumption that the typical red diode needs 3 volts, which is what many simple pointers require... I have torn so many laser diodes out of low and high end equipment, and by high end, I mean laser copiers and other photo devices, but I thought they all were 3 volt...

I have seen lots of laser projects with 2.5 volts used and even 9 volts... For instance my 120mW green uses 2 AAA or about 3+ volts. But what dictates this? I had some red diodes from a nice lightscribe burner, threw 2.8 volts into them and bam, dead in 2 seconds, were pretty bright though...