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oh yeah, im trying to run off 12 of these housings sans driver and diode housing for $80. any takers? this may be some time though.

module showed up, installed it and it worked flawlessly. i got to show it off for a few days and impressed the he11 out my friends.........until i was playing with a motor and mirror and flashed the diode. this = bad. ordering a new one tonight. my favourite thing- this design is 100% serviceable!

uh...has anyone just plain asked greg?

just imagine how many you would have to burn up to get any kind of average, and that would have to be done at all sorts of mA and duty cycles for a range of diffrent diodes- after all, what good are measurements if you cant compare them? im thinking $ x time (and time = $)

why thank you spirorocks! i hope it works as good as it looks! :)

im really happy with the way its come out so far. most of the work was just thinking it out. and i happend to get really lucky finding just the right parts that all worked well together.

from the other end

switch in the endcap w/out rubber. the cap was made from two pieces i filed, drilled, milled, and welded together. the smaller end was added to protect the toggle switch. you can also see the board i cut the circle from. ilove my dremel!

this is the end cap switch. surface mount toggle from rs. the pcb was cut into a circle to fit the cavity in the cap. more copper foil used to connect the - with the barrel via the switch mounting hole in the endcap. the spring was hijacked from a flashlight and soldered to the pcb. also,a piece...

sony 16x from sencat (much thanks to him for his efforts to provide them!)

i found a syringe that fit nice and tight in the barrel and made the driver into a slug thats the pos term for the battery. i used some salvaged copper foil soldered to the +/- for the terminals. i drilled a hole in the syringe for the - to contact the barrel when inserted and the same for the...

this is the driver (thanks to ddl and lpf!). i was suprised how small i got it to come out! white- pos in brown- pos out black- neg made to be like a tap instead of having an in/out

this is where i am now. the housing is done save adding the diode and axiz mod. the brown wire is pos from the ddl driver and the case is neg. there is a weld near the lip filed smooth @1 1/2 inch mark. everything has also been bead blasted.

well i only got one more anyhow, so why not. the tube and fittings i used are all 316l stainless steel. 5/8 schedule 10 pipe , and some compression fittings. every thing was done by hand save some drilling and rotery fileing. took me 2 days at work for the metal work.

i know not everyone has access to the kinds of material and tools i get to use at work, but i do and i abuse the hell out of it! ;D

(I'm trying to get to 20 posts so i can post the pics)

First and foremost i would like to thank the people of this forum for putting out such great information and insperation. I haven't even really had to ask many questions because most every thing has already been adressed in one place or another.

stylin' laser flogged. i thinks i need some of those mounting blocks, they look real sharp.

listening in isnt all that hard. and you dont even have to be at a perfect angle either- if you can put a right angle prism on a window you can hit it from any angle. they sell a kit in the back of pop science for this same thing.

RS sells a great de-soldering tool. i think is @ $8 or so, the blue spring-loaded plunger looking one. it works great.