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I would be interested in two basic kits w/out the driver, if there are any left. I've already sent a PM to you.

Set the power supply to 4.2V and the current limit to 0.7C (0.7C means 0.7xCapacity. So if your cr123a has a capacity of 900mAh, limit the current to 900 x 0.7 = 630 mA). Additionally, you will need to stick around and monitor the current near the end of the charge. When the charge current...

It depends on the the type of battery you are charging. You can use the DDL driver to trickle charge a NiMH battery. For Li-ions, you can use the LM317 in constant voltage mode to charge your batteries. Though you will need to limit the maximum current to around 0.7C.

I soldered to the ribbon cable since it was easier than soldering to the pins at the time. I was planning on soldering wires directly to the diode after I had extracted it, but I wanted to check if it worked while in the sled, so I just soldered some wires to the ribbon cable.

I made sure not to keep the diode on for more than 5 seconds at that power. During that time the heatsink didn't even get warm. I had maybe a total of 30 seconds of run-time on the diode before it died the next day. I'm completely out of ideas, I guess I'll just have to hope for better luck...

I have a 10 µF electrolytic to suppress any large spikes, and a 0.1 µF mylar cap to catch any high-frequency spikes. I had the capacitors shorted with a jumper while I connected the LOC, so I'm pretty sure they were discharged. The current was set with a pot, but I had verified that the...

I used a DDL driver set at 400mA with a 10µF and 0.1µF capacitor paralleled. The capacitors were discharged before I connected the diode. I would take some pictures, but my camera doesn't have a good macro function. I dont think it's dust, since the diode was still in the sled when it broke...

Recently, I purchased a LPC-815 sled from HighTechDealz. When it got here I soldered a few wires to the ribbon cable and powered the diode up. It worked fine. I didn't have the tools to extract it at the time, so I put it back in the anti-static bag and left it alone. The next day I try...

I think it is the one on the right. Though I just got the sled and haven't had a chance to confirm it yet. Edit: I powered on my sled, the red diode is the one on the right.

Nice work Eudaimonium! Sorry to see you lost a PHR. You might try hooking it up to an oscilloscope (if you have one) and see what is going on at the output.

With Aixiz acrylic lens LPC-815s will output around 250mw @ 420ma. If you want to push the diode to 500ma you will get nearly 300mw from one. With better lens you may be able to reach beyond 350 - 400mw.

How was the quality of the casing? A few of the reviews indicate it might be a factory reject for the C6 Flashlight.

$10.90? From where? The cheapest I found was at DX: DealExtreme: $16.41 Aurora C6 Cree P4 LED Flashlight (1*18650/2*CR123A)

Wow, those are some great macro pics. What camera/lens did you use? Also, it's nice to see you have LPC-815s in stock, just in time for my red build.

Welcome to the forums jkoeller, The LPC-815 sled can be found at modwerx. You can also find the Aixiz module on that same site. Keep in mind that you will need to manually extract the diode from the sled and press it into the Aixiz module. Or, if you don't want to extract and press the diode...

Hello lager562, To get a functional laser, you will need at a minimum these parts: -Laser diode -Focusing module -Driver -Power source -Tools and misc. items to put it all together (soldering iron, wires, ect.) For a red laser, the long open-can diode from the LPC-815 sled is a good place to...

Some people can make use of the optics that come with a sled (Beam splitters, lenses, mirrors, ect). Additionally, many blu-ray sleds also come with a red diode that can be extracted and used. However, if you are just planning on building pointer, all you need from the sled is the diode...

Seeing as how no one has commented yet and your thread is about to drop off the front page. I thought that I would just say thanks for sharing. It might be easier just to buy a GITD sheet, but your idea is certainly very innovative. Thanks for taking your time to upload the photos and video.

After reading a bit more about the 7882 driver board, it does appear to be voltage regulated. Plus, the 15880 seems to have poorer regulation that I had previously thought. So neither of these boards looks too promising for driving LDs. But even then, I might just end up buying a few of...

So you get 58ma regardless of whether you are using the 5v or 12v rail? If so I can't think of much else that could be going wrong. Are you sure that the red diodes you had could take 57ma? And again, make sure the capacitor is shorted before you hook up a LD. I would short the capacitor...