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You could always open an INR dispute with paypal within 45 days of payment.

I'll have to check my box this Friday.

Its gone now. I checked the link a while back and it was at $50 but the seller was new and had zero feedback. The listing says the item comes from Honk Kong but the seller was based in the US. Too good to be true.

I have the i4 and I like it. I don't really care if my charger has and LCD or not. As long as it charges properly, I'm hapy with that. That guy also has a lot of very good reviews and test on batteries, chargers and flashlights.

So I need to power the op amp straight from the main power rail and remove the connection to Vout? Edit: djQUAN, I've connected the op amp V+ supply to the main power rail (after the filter caps) and disconnected it from the 317's Vout. The ouput voltage is now stuck at maximum. Do I need to...

Thermal compound is the only thing between the transistor and the heatsink so they are connected but the heatsink is insulated from the chassis.

Heatsink and transistor are isolated from the chassis -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------...

Sorry. I forgot to post the pics because I was busy this week so I'll do it tonight. And yes, the negative supply pin is connected to -6V.

I shouldn't be bumping this in just a few hours but here's an update: I've replaced the pass transistor and it worked fine again. With both pots at minimum, I connected a 3W LED to the output and it worked fine. I was able to adjust the voltage and current limit without anything blowing up...

I removed the fuse but I wanted to see the current draw so I put my multimeter where the fuse was. I switched the supply on with the adjust pots set to minimum and nothing is connected to output. It displayed the correct voltage (1.27V) and the CV led was on. As soon as I turned one pot...

Not quite in my case. There are two (0-20V) windings and two (0-12V) windings. The 20V are paralleled and used in the main rectifier and the 12V are in series and used as center tap for the aux voltages. The part where I said the transformer was humming, one of the 20V windings is actually...

Ok I'll try that. I've never thought about that. My only aim was to protect the secondary windings in case something goes wrong.

Here are the voltages of U4. Both adjust pots are set to minimum. The output voltage is 1.269V and the minimum current is 15mA. Pin 1 --> (-4.55V) note: CC mode is triggered when test lead contacts this pin 1. When current limit is raised to 49mA the supply stays is CV mode and the voltage at...

Someone has to be really stupid to buy this lamp at that price.

4th consecutive post. I changed the primary side fuse and left all the secondary wires floating. The fuse did not blow when I switched it on but it was making a loud hum. I've googled it and some say its because there is no load. But it was not humming when I first tested the secondary...

Power has been out all day so this will have to wait again until tomorrow.

Cyparagon, I can't measure the voltages right now. I was tidying up the wires including the ones on the transformer. I accidentally shorted one winding and the fuse on the pri side blew. I don't have extra fuses so it'll have to wait till tomorrow.

The CV led was fixed. It wasn't properly grounded. I did try to measure the op amp voltages but when doing that, I discovered that it wasn't powered with the positive supply so I fixed that. I will measure it again tonight. I have fuses on the primary and secondary side. The only fuse that...

I had one of those 2xAMC7135 drivers from FT and it had the same problem. I powered it with a single 18650 and hooked it up to a generic 3W led and it was only driving it at around 300mA. I shorted it to my multimeter in Amps mode and its the same thing. These could be knock-of chips.

Doesn't it get burned? Does it also work with 405nm?