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Yeah this project requires a stable laser of a known power to calibrate it, but even without a known laser you can at least measure the relative power differences between your lasers. One could also send the completed LPM out to someone who has a calibrated LPM. It's all up to what you want to do.

Feel free to post in the thread :) TECs can be incredibly sensitive (assuming you shield it from ambient energy sources) Although you may need to change R2 to 100K to give a higher gain range. You should be able to read lasers at the single digit mW range with no issues.

R8 is the third potentiometer, it's used for the battery indicator. Tetech has a good selection for reasonable prices. I would recommend TE-31-1.0-1.5 - TE Tech Products It's a 14.8mm square module Standard Modules - TE Technology

Also just a heads up for everyone, the board layout has not been tested yet so I will hold off on supplying the design files until I know it has been tested. Thanks

Hi guys, a recent member's PM got me inspired to redraw the $50 LPM project. WHAT'S NEW IN v2.0 -dual rail power supply for better zero level performance (now requires 2x 9v batteries but can still be run on one battery by connecting jumper JP1) -slightly cleaner schematic -clearer solder pad...

If glue is covering both potentiometers I'd try to cut the glue and then peel off the glue only on the zero pot side.

The resistor marked 101 is the main zero, the other is the gain and should not be adjusted so make sure you have the right one before going at it

With the radiant alpha you can actually adjust an internal zero without affecting the calibration of the meter. To adjust the internal zero follow these steps: 1 put the external zero knob in the center position 2 open the meter and find the adjustable potentiometer marked 101 on top 3 with...

Thanks, I was thinking about using a small piece of standard prototyping PCB in my amp but now ionlaser555 has me thinking if I could print some turret board on my 3d printer for a more flexible design Edit: also holy crap that's a big film cap

Bringing this thread back up as I've been working towards completing my first tube amp and was looking to get some input from those with more experience. My amp design is two 12AT7 triode stages for voltage gain driving a 12DQ6B pentode for the output, class A. I am currently cathode biasing...

ionlaser555 - v3 looks amazingly tidy, especially considering everything is on perfboard. I picked up a bunch of numitrons at SELEM2014 and originally tried driving them with a multiplexed driver. The low duty cycle was not enough to light the filaments and im sure the pulsing would've been bad...

A DVD burner diode would be ok for engraving wood slowly, but it would likely do nothing to acrylic unless it's a color that significantly absorbs 650nm. Carbon dioxide lasers are usually used for engravers as the long wavelength is absorbed by almost all materials you would want to engrave.

I've only had hands-on experience with the Scientech 365 which I was able to get datalogging working for, the one he recently PMed me about I did not recommend mixing sensor types from different models.

Which meter?

The method of driving the TEC can vary depending on what you want to do. PID control isn't really necessary unless you really need to regulate the temperature of something to a precise value. Usually only needed for DPSS crystals and controlling pump diode wavelength. For a plain ol diode...

I remember seeing those giant single digit VFDs on ebay a while back. That's a hell of a rat's nest. Sig - check out Noritake's shop, their sample modules are surprisingly cheap Purchase display samples for your application: Noritake VFD shop

I would leave the heatsink up to the buyer, in most cases the driver can be bolted to the optical plate and if required, additional heatsinking can be added to the underside of the optical plate

Any particular reason for using the DB25 on the single channel driver? Space is tight in projectors so I would think a smaller molex connector with larger terminals would be better suited. Ex a minifit jr (pci-express power connector type)

Yeah, I would prefer to sell the head and PSU together but maybe if there is another untested on ebay I could test it since I have a known good head.

Sorry that was an error on my part. I should make a spreadsheet or something.