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I have built special heatsinks for one of my customers for almost a year now. I have finally had a chance to play with the lasers he has been building with them. OK, so this mod is made famous by our friend KipKay, the main difference here is that these are done with proper drivers, heatsinks...

That is really cool. I haven't built a power-supply for mine yet, but I will have to try this. You can pump KTP with these. There is an article on Sam's Laser FAQ about a guy who uses a SSY-1 to pump KTP and record holographic images, much faster and less shakey than normal. Just search for SSY-1.

Welcome to LPF :) I am not a DPSS expert, but I can help a bit until others do. To "see" the 808nM-light, try a web-cam, or your cell-phone-camera. Your "crystal" is actually two-crystals bonded together, you will want to use the 808-focusing-lens to focus the 808-light onto the Nd:YVO4-side...

These little wrenches are hard to find. I had to order every available hex-wrench under 1mm, (both metric and inch), from McMaster-Carr. Luckily, i ordered a couple of each size. Now I need to find some replacment-screws for this size.

I have a couple that fit the screws in my Aries-host, I bet yours are the same-size. PM me your address and I will send one to you. Barry Edit: These little wrenchs measure .035" across the flats, (.889mm?).

The lens is usually on the other-side of the silver-disc, under the aperture-cap. There are usually 3-set screws, very tiny, tapped into the very last groove of the heatsink fins. These screws will have to be loosened and the cap removed, then you should be able to see the lens. I doubt the...

Your thinking is very valid, but I think it was meant to warm the cyrstal from the beginning now. Now that I have a better understanding of the design-intention, I think the driver for the TEC just needs to be adjusted-down, so it swicthes off the current to the TEC at a lower-temp. I still...

Excellent info, thanks. I was afraid it wouldn't be quite as easy as changing a single crystal. There is a lens for focusing the C-mount-FAC-output onto the primary-crystal, maybe that would allow a little more pump-light in from a larger C-mount? I have experimented with 473nM a little...

I have rewired the TEC-driver to it's original configuration, (heating the KTP, cooling the module-body). I am having trouble reducing the current to the TEC. It seams to read .5A, or it drops to nothing, if the pot is turned "down". It is almost like the driver only switches on or off, in...

I have roughly realigned the KTP-crystal for now and check on the LPM. It's output is more stable now, about 100mW, dropping to 90mW after a minute or so. The brass-module now gets noticably "warm" in the hand after a minute now. Seams like a lot of trouble to go through for a 100mW laser. More...

So, I switched the lead from the TEC to the correctly-labled-pads on the driver. Now it cools the crystal-side for sure. While I was switching the leads, I used one of Laserbee's 1ohm resistors to check the amperage coming from each driver, here are the goodies: TEC-driver, (using a 1-ohm...

Upon closer-inspection of the TEC-driver, I noticed a couple of things. First, there are labels in the PCB screenprinting that are labeled "TEC -" and "TEC+", the leads soldered to these are grey and black. Next: These wires are in-turn soldered to the leads coming from the red and...

I have taken the final-crystal mount off now. It does appear to have a tiny TEC mounted under the crystal. When powered up disassembled, the small-white pad (ceramic I think), does get warm, the other side likely is meant to cool the rest of the module, (brass). This seams like a great idea...

I had similar thoughts. But I will have to understand it's intended opperation much more first. Right now it seams to be cooking the second-crystal.

I bought a few Aries-type lasers from Glenn's LG-group-buy last winter. One was very different from the others in design, it was designed to unscrew in the "middle" of the body to replace the battery, (instead of removing the tail-cap). Also, it was designed to take a 18650, instead of (2)...

This is a link to our old web-site, now only exists in Google-cache. Here is the current-link. DJR Full Body V2 Heatsink Thanks for the reference :) Barry

The scanners are sold now, thank you everyone :)

Sounds like a great deal, your stuff is always top-notch. Pm sent :)

Fair enough, I am pretty long-winded. For those that need a condensed version: I have been in contact with Tyler and we have worked out some changes that will clear most of any confusion between the two identities, eveything that is practical to do. We have also agreed to leave this thread...

Guys, this whole topic is going sideways. Notice I did not post my notice in the review-section. I will try to not go into great detail here as I feel like I have already stated everything in the first post, just read that, followed by the important information from Charlie-Bruce explaining...