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No matter if you got called a "troll" or literally noun passes for an umbrella term for a person that can't be understood using logic on the internet these days. You join a laser forum and ask what laser is best for popping a car's tires. This is literally the same as joining a gun forum and...

This is not so much a question regarding lasers, as it is regarding materials. You can know the energy of the laser beam easily, use an LPM or educated guess based on diode, current powering it, and lens in front of it. The core of your question is answered by the absorption property of the...

Some time ago in a discussion, I said, You cannot stop people from asking already answered questions. The sooner we all realize it, the better we're all off. We're dealing with a very specific field of electronics and optics, and you don't pick up knowledge and pointers from day-to-day life...

Weird problem, but my money's on the driver. Diode is probably fine. Dead diodes never produce full output again, even in flashes. Sounds like the drivers is instantly overheating and reducing it's output. Or maybe set above it's output capacity. Re-check the driver using a test load.

Right. So? How exactly are we supposed to help you? You cannot turn your laser into more powerful laser. You can maybe try using a magnifier glass to focus the beam when trying to burn matches, but if it doesn't work, there is nothing you can do except buy a more powerful laser.

Well, for starters it's obvious that the laser is CLEARLY not 2000mW. I assume it's some $20 (+/-) laser you bought online? Well, it's clearly not strong enough to burn, because cheap lasers are weak lasers, and often wrongly labeled. You want a laser that burns stuff? Build your own, or pay...

Badass project you have there. Electromagnetic hovering? You owe us a video of it working! :D I think blu-ray violets would fit best there... what did you have in mind? How will you fit it? Warm welcome to the forums :)

To be honest, I have not seen keylock features on many sub-$50 lasers. In any event, maybe you should check out O-like store, they do have some nice greenies, though none are FDA compliant. Not sure what else to recommend.

Sorry for long time no reply. Looking for a diode alone - not in copper module. Don't need the extra price over head :/ $30 is also bit too much but I'll scope out the rest of ebay, see if I can't find what I need. Thanks guys.

Hi folks, I'm having trouble tracking down a simple red 650nm 250mW diodes - I though DTR's shop had them but I guess I saw wrong. I'm also looking for just one glass red-AR-coated lens to go with it. Also I need a few of those lens springs, I seem to have used all that up and I'm not up for...

Honestly, I wouldn't even be surprised if you tore open that one battery and just find a smaller one inside of it. This "make it look like another product, without it actually being one" fad is impossibly frustrating. Nice pictures, though! What camera did you use?

Bollocks. Need to spread rep before giving it to you again. That's awesome.

How to use LM317 driver: BTW you're missing a "host" from your list of needed items. See blue line in my signature :)

It'll be fine. Heatsink is rather small-ish but considering it'll be mounted on a bigger backplate and with forced air, it's good enough for etching runs, which aren't really 100% duty cycle anyway, etching doesn't take forever. Just touch the heatsink after a run or two, see how it's doing...

Shop update! Now accepting Bitcoin payments! Ordering procedure is the same, just PM me with your order, I'll give you the grand total, and you can pay with Paypal in US dollars, or with BTC, which will be equivalent to dollar value at the time of purchase.

O, pozdrav komšija :D Ima nas malo ovdje sa Balkana, uvjek lijepo vidjet još ljudi :)

Oh no, that's a breadboard connection. Like I said in my post above, the connection to the diode must be permanent - solder it to the driver, don't use breadboards or alligator clips or whatever else is non-permanent. That is the true problem IMHO, heatsinking is not an issue, never was, not...

This is your problem. NEVER interrupt a connection between the driver and the diode. A very tiny opening of the connection results in the output capacitor suddenly being charged, and when connection is re-established, it empties into the diode, killing it. Also, that schematic is all wrong...