Search results

Using an anodized heat sink would work well for case positive builds. Case positive diodes makes a positive feed throughout the host instead the the usual negative/ground. Since the battery makes a negative feed throughout the host it will interfere and kill the diode. So isolating the diode...

I'm pretty sure you can use any driver for a case positive laser diode. The trick is isolating the case pin. The case pin is usually connected to the body of the diode where it touches the heat sink. This makes the usually negative feed to the body of the host positive. Another trick would be...

Awesome! I'm glad you like them! :beer: @hakzaw1: Thanks!! No I wasn't the one who made them, heh.

I already placed an order yesterday! I've heard they take up to 5 days to ship it out :( I've also noticed that price wise the US warehouse is priced higher maybe like 5-10% Shipping prices is also ridiculous if you just buy under $10 since they'll add like $10 shipping. The more you buy the...

PM replied! Happy Thanksgiving everyone!!!

You mean not heat sinking the bottom at all? And just heat sinking the top? The resistors would need heat sinking when set at high output currents.

Only if your heat sinking compound is electrically conductive or you squish it hard it enough that it makes contact with the resistors. What I usually recommend is either put some polymide (kapton) tape over the resistors prior to heat sinking or use non-conductive thermal pads.

I'm glad you like them! Hmm, I never really gave a thought about naming them. I just usually went by 1117 drivers or 1084 drivers, but maybe JuFDrives? The resistors and caps are on the bottom of the board. :beer:

Glad you got it all sorted out! :beer:

That's also possible. Try to check all the connections. If that doesn't work it could be the driver itself.

Hmm, is the driver your using adjustable or fixed current? Sometimes the pot gets bumps and throws it out spec. Also, it could be dropping in voltage because the test load is starting to heat up. Your other driver should be fine, maybe the batteries need charging?

Hmm, that's strange. The voltage shouldn't be dropping. It should be approximate to the driver's current output rating. Do you have a picture of your set up?

That's correct! The test load takes the place of the laser diode without all the dangers of ruining it. It will tell you if the driver is working well and the with the multimeter it tells you the approximate current output. Also a must on drivers where current is set by a pot.

I'm glad you guys like it!!! Let me know if you need any help! :beer:

Re: FS: Linear drivers + Lenses + Heat sinks + More!!! :bumpit: Still available!!

PM incoming!

@irishluck: Yes, they're in stock! I only have 1 available and 1 pending payment. @AliceInChains: PM replied! I'll have to edit the first post for future changes because for some reason the thread title can't be changed. And I also forgot to change my signature :o

Re: FS: Linear drivers + Lenses + Heat sinks + More!!! Hey guys just posting an update: All DIY LPMs are now complete kits and there are only 3 left! The TEC heat sink, TEC, and volt meter are still not included. Also, drivers can be set up to 2A now. Edit: forgot to mention that drivers...

Re: FS: Linear drivers + Lenses + Heat sinks + Misc Yep, that's right. Aurora C6. I've never seen that type of C6 before in the link you gave. Sort of looks like a C8 which is also pretty popular. Anyways, if your still interested let me know!

Re: FS: Linear drivers + Lenses + Heat sinks + Misc PM incoming!