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The first one, the Provari, is VV and the second, the iTaste MVP is both VV/VW. The Provari's has one button with a cycle-through-with-button-presses type menu. The provari uses 1 18650 and maxes out at 6V. The iTaste has an internal 2600mAh battery with charge port. It also has a usb port...

Alright, got my module in Wednesday, but haven't had much of a chance to play with till today. Both my provari and itaste mvp 2.0 work with it, and since I got a 638nm (presumably with flexdrive), there is no low power mode. And of course both have cutoffs. The Prolase: The ilase:

I've got an oclaro 638 250mW in this adapter on the way. I will test it out on my provari and itaste mvp 2.0, as well as the mechs. I have doubts that the provari will work, but we'll see.

Re: Doom to 3 elements - New G series lens for 405nm/ 445nm / 520nm This looks very interesting. Definitely keeping an eye on this.

That's not glue, it's thermal compound. That doesn't hold the module in, it helps the heat get out. The set screw is what holds the module in the heatsink.

Towards the front. You may see it by removing the front retainer ring.

The set screw is in the side of the heatsink. Unscrew the steal ring, you may see the set screw. If not, CAREFULLY pull the heatsink out a little, you should see the screw.

I've seen plastic discs like that, that screw out like the metal retainers. Are you sure there is no holes or indentions in it? If nothing else, try to make a shallow hole and see if it turns with needle nose pliers.

From what I gather, G1 and G2 are roughly the same. Both of these are single element lenses, meaning there is one lense. 3-element lenses have multiple(3) lenses, and since anything the laser strikes will absorb some of it's energy, have greater loss than a single element lense. AFAIK, beam...

Hey Pman, if you want more/thicker vapor, get juices high in VG (vegetable glycerin). These also tend to be less harsh on the throat. I just started mixing my own e-juice, maybe once I get the hang of it I can send you some 0 nic.

Nothing that I can see, unless you measure total power used by diode and driver, then set a VW mod to that. It would seem easier to me to set the voltage to 6V and let it lase.

Re: nwfreefly- host project Wow, that is a beauty! Will definatly keep an eye on this, and hope it comes together.

This is just awesome.... got to go grab one. This gives me a reason to get more mods, hehe.. Edit: Lots of vape stores sell DIY stuff, so you can get 510 female connetors to screw the module into anything. Like this 510 battery connector sealed. They even have pre-wired.

I usually set the laser 5-6" from the sensor, defocused so most or all of the sensors surface is covered. If you get too close to the sensor, the heat from your hand or the front of the laser can skew the results. You want to make sure it's defocused, both to protect the sensor from too high of...

Pm incoming...

I think my first build qualifies as unique... The build thread: first build 650nm 300mw

Yes, Sci-fi lasers is run by a member, Thejoker301. Jetlasers is also a great company that is highly recommended.

Yup, that's negative to tail cap.

Depends on how you wired it. Generally it is negative to tail cap, especially if you wired the black lead from the module to the negative contact on the contact board.

I wouldn't let them get below 3.2V. It also wouldn't be a bad idea to charge them all the way up. Fully charged should be ~4.15V - 4.25V.