Recent content by trag

Are there any tips for building this driver without reflow equipment? For my build I don't really need it to be tiny so I'm thinking of using a soldering iron and maybe buying some of the parts in larger packages. I wouldn't use the same PCB obviously, if I did this.

I'm actually using an 805, so I'm going to shoot for around 110mA.

Okay, that's a lot better.

I'm probably missing something, but a 27mA spike doesn't seem that safe. Would it be proportional to the regulated current? Reducing the regulated current by 27mA isn't a big deal with a 1W+ laser, but if you only want a few hundred mA, then that's significant. With a PHR-805t, you couldn't set...

Okay. Sorry, I'm confused because I have the v3.1 from cajunlasers and on that website it did mention the need to heatsink the green chip.

But you guys are heatsinking the ic, not the green chip.

Okay, I'll take your word for it. I would like to see pictures of someone's heatsink setup for it though. Edit: Another question: Is the BlitzBuck 3.1 the same as 4? Because the one at cajunlasers is called 3.1.

Do you think heatsinking the green chip is necessary for 450mA of output current? Also, how do you recommend heatsinking such a small component?

I have been reading a lot about scotopic and photopic vision lately and I have come to the same conclusion that nighttime laser viewing would fall under the mesopic range. It would be nice if there were CIE measurements for that. RHD, you were asking about a better source for CIE tables...

So I just got an email from o-like saying that the batteries come uncharged. I wonder why they do that. The best way to store Li-Ion batteries is at 40% charge, according to what I've read.

I would be very relieved if it's the battery. I have some extra CR2's and a charger on the way. As soon as that comes, I will try those batteries out.

I bought a 50mW Pocket Compact green laser from o-like. It was very bright for the first 20 seconds, then it quickly dimmed to almost nothing. Now, every time I turn it on, it starts out dim and fades to nothing after a couple seconds. I'm not even convinced that the first 20 seconds were...

Thanks for the info. I guess it does make sense that you could gain quite a bit with an AR coating. I will consider spending a few extra dollars for that. I think the safety glasses I'll need to get for this laser will cost more than everything else combined. I was trying to find something for...

I'm surprised that the type of lens used would make 50mW of difference. To me, half the fun of making this laser is to make it at a ridiculously low cost. So I was thinking of going with a DDL driver, since I would only have to buy the LM317. (I'm not sure where to get that though. It doesn't...

So would you say that usually, with careful adjustment, you can get a focusable laser to be as collimated as a (decent quality) fixed focus laser?