Recent content by Krusher

LOL. The HeNe works fine and still has some good uses. I might get into holograms someday or need a beam with only .8mrad divergence. Also, you can run a HeNe for years if needed while these high power diodes only have a MTBF of 8-10,000 hours. They're just not for show anymore when you can...

It's been almost a year since this last post? I'm such a slacker. Anyway, to the four people who were reading this thread, in case you're still around the HeNe does work. I plug it in every so often to charge up the caps and warm things up a bit. I tried taking a pic of the beam so I could...

I used some liquid flux in a dropper and it did wick nicely. Now hopefully I'll never have to remove it lol.

Ok, I think of epoxy as being much stronger than adhesive--typically. But it's one and the same I suppose. :) Thanks for the 60/40 tip. I will make a note of that.

@cilegray, that sounds like a neat trick. Do you have any suggestions like 10% compound to 90% adhesive, etc? Difficult to remove is OK, but their adhesive is more like epoxy right now. I finished my assembly today with the Schottky Barrier diodes, and @1.8A the 1N5404's pretty much match...

It works now; thanks for fixing that. I just ordered a DIY kit. I thought about using some arctic silver adhesive; I've used that before on other projects. But, if I stick a nice heat sink on there and one diode quits on me, I'll likely have to replace them all. (That heat sink glue is like...

Are you sold out of these? I tried the Google link and it says so. I was going to make one of these myself, but your board layout looks so nice. :) I'm probably going to substitute some 1N5822's for your 1N5404's. Schottky Barrier diodes drop about half the voltage, so it will take twice as...

To have a press-fit option, I figured you'd have to ship it in something where the wires remain fixed to the pill and heat sink/diode module. Like a piece of hose for example. But then you're right, it's not as modular or easily fixed without a diode press and soldering iron. Ok on the...

Just wanted to drop in here quick and give a little mini-review on the $139 package in case someone is on the fence--just get it! :) The $139 kit is great for someone who doesn't solder much and wants to build a nice high-power setup. Or, maybe you're like me in that you solder a lot, and...

They're labeled 405-G-2 but cover the 445nm wavelength as well. I have two of these lenses from DTR and they both work at 445. DTR, since you answered my last question I figured I'd help you out quick in case you were busy tonight and answer this one. :)

Ok thanks; so it's not like operating on an egg...probably more static sensitive than anything. I made a heat sink to put the diode in while soldering on it; so I'm all set.

Since someone else mentioned it, how would you recommend removing that plastic spacer safely so that you can solder all three wires on? I figure that I can remove the old solder quickly off the + and - leads with some solder wick, but am not 100% sure if that plastic thing will slide off after...

The white wire is case or chassis ground, much like the green wire on most appliances. If you don't have a ground on your laser pointer, most people would probably hook up the ground to negative.

Ok thanks! I have two styles to try now. The variance in screw-in distance is actually nice in this respect for my lab style; I was hoping to use an o-ring as a retainer. From what I've read, teflon tape doesn't last and the focal length is too short for a spring on these lenses. As always...

I received the Voltex DG-22 today and "hot wired" the laser quickly; it works. This supply is also potted. (And smaller than the original by quite a bit!) Once I get the bench supply rewired and assembled I'll post a pic here once I figure that out.