Recent content by hammong

No. Just plain "NO". Do not rely on some mechanical limitation on that pot to set the minimum resistance it will deliver. If the mechanical limit fails, bends, breaks off, etc, your laser diode is going to go POOF. Furthermore, we're talking about the difference of FRACTIONS of 1 ohm...

From the National Semiconductor spec sheet, the formula is 1.25/A = ohms. Be sure to specify milliamperes as a decimal, eg 420 mA = 0.42 A

The two 10 ohm resistors in parallel are to set the maximum output current of the driver. True, you could just use the pot, but if you twitch while setting it, you could easily overshoot the set point and send way too much current through to the diode. Agree with the 9v drive voltage into...

The LPC-815 is an open can, long die diode. If that's indeed what you have there, it's a nice diode and capable of some good output. Here's a summary of what I found on another forum: * 360mA = 220mW * 390mA = 235mW * 420mA = 250mW * 435mA = 265mW * 460mA = 275mW- 280mW I make...

What I want to know is, how Laser-Coherent hasn't been sued by Coherent, Inc. The name in association with Laser marketing borders on trademark infringement. Greg

No idea what diode that is, since it's still inside a piece of the sled heatsink. As for starting current, you should build or buy a variable current driver, and start at 0mA and slowly go up until the diode diode suddenly gets brighter ... That's the threshold current. Report back with what...

Yeah, that oughtta do it. 4 ohm resistor would give you 317 mA - about 5% more than the 300 you plan for. Keep in mind some cheap resistors can be +/- 10% or 5% tolerence so that 4 ohm might be as high sa 4.4 or as low as 3.6 ohm. If you have a digital multimeter, be sure to test the...

1.25/A = ohms So if you want a 300 mW fixed output, use a 1.25/0.3 = 4.167 ohms. The "1.25" is a constant derived from the LM317 spec sheet, the "0.3" is 300 mA expressed as a decimal. You'll probably not find a 4.166666 ohm resistor, but a 4 ohm resistor would give you 312 mA. If you...

All of the models on the WL web site have a specifications page that show the minimum and maximum power specifications. In the S3 Arctic, it shows 500 mW minimum and 1W maximum. I'm ok if mine falls in the middle at 750mW-ish range, I made an informed purchase decision before buying. I'll...

The S3 Arctic is going to burn better with it's approximately 750 mW of output than the approximately 300 mW outout of the lowest level Krypton. The Krypton, however, is going to appear much brighter. The human eye sees 532nm green with better response than 455nm blue. No doubt about it...

The S3 Arctic only comes as one model, advertised as 1W. The consensus on the WL forums and elsewhere of course is that they tend to run 640-750 mW when tested. Yes, it burns well - on high power it will scorch leaves and ignite dark paper and plastic unfocused at six feet in my tests...

Mine came with a red-skinned Sanyo 18650, and a generic chinese Li-Ion charger. Not sure what the capacity of my cell is, didn't look up the part number yet.

If anyone is local to Baltimore/Washington area with a LPM, I could meet for a test. Any takers?

If you turn the pot screw up, you very likely will burn the diode out. If it was sold as a 20 mW unit, with the driver and diode already together, the diode isn't rated for more than that. Do so at your own risk and expense!

Yeah, I've read through that list before. I've built my own 405nm and 650nm project boxes, but I saw a S3 in person and wanted it for the host as much as anything else. If the thing ever croaks I'll gut it and make a 2W out of it. =) Some of the posts on that 33 and counting list are...