Recent content by chefla

It appears that they have really pulled it off. It will be an option in the new i8. Here is an interesting article about it: link

You don't need R1/R3 in the schematic in post#2. It is a voltage divider for the ADC. You could however use that for Vin measurement. Vin>3 Volt: driver turns on - Vin<=3.0V: driver does not turn on. And don't forget the integrated EEPROM. E.g. use it to save the last mode (or don't). Just a few...

I agree ^^. This IC does not have a true output disconnect, so if your control pin is low, your booster is switched off and your output voltage will be a little less than your battery voltage.

I believe Achim Korden has been the first to put a motorcycle engine in a kart. Google for "gixxer kart". German Engineering ;-)

Did you take ESD precautions? These ICs need to be handled carefully. You could have damaged it. I have been there before. Once the opamps or fets are blown, these devices start to behave funny...

At 350mA the 445s are taking around 4V iirc. Decrease yor battery voltage... What is a 650 diode? The red LOC or LCC types need even less voltage (2.6/2.7V) at 350mA. So something is wrong here...

I have not verified the part values, but the schematic looks ok to me. I build a lab supply with the LT3083 once and it worked fine. Did you take the Vdrop into account? This might explain why you are only seeing the 800mA instead of 1A. Try a supply with a higher voltage and see if that helps...

Great job on the layout and good idea with the aluminum core board! Let me guess: LT1370HV? 0.01Ohm Rsense, something like INA168 and pot adjustable gain?

Re: FS/FT: Custom 1.1W 445nm "Indian Larry" -- Gold Plated Copper HS -- Flame Design Wow, a real beauty! I love the flames and the gold plated head is also a gem. Thumbs up!

Yes, it is a really awesome build, as always ;-) Thumbs up! Have you considered building a flashlight with a HID lamp? A D2 lamp will give you the same 2800lm and use only 35W due to higher efficiency. Just an idea...

I hate to dig around in old threads, but according to the datasheet the 100W Xenophot HLX lamp used in this build has 2800 lm. You may want to correct that to prevent people from getting overly excited ;-)

In a buck configuration your inductor current is your switch current, is your load current. All of that is in series when the switch is on. In cases where you use caps on the output there will be some additional current going to re-charge the caps during cycles. But there only are a few cases...

IMHO there is no tipping point. But I would keep an eye on the DC resistance of the inductor. For best efficiency you need an inductor with low resistance. Those inductors generally are larger in size due to thicker wire. Also, a higher inductance produces less current ripple. I always try to...

Without dropping any voltage it will be very difficult to regulate the current for any design. Even buck supplies require some voltage overhead. Here are two ideas. Buck: I have one of these at home to drive LEDs. If you are interested, I could do some measurements for you to find out how much...

It is hard to figure out what you are asking for. The housing is fine, but won't help you in any way to get your multimode diode focused into a dot. IMHO you need FAC for your purpose.