Recent content by Why_you

I'm selling one of my Newport 1918-C laser power meters. Works, but it comes WITHOUT a detector since i still need that and without a NiCd battery pack (since that is dead). It definitely works with Newports 818 and 918 series of detectors and maybe with Gentec heads since they use exactly the...

Powell for lines of defined angle, Lidar for a 360° line. Yeah, a Lidar scanner is technically not CW, but if it's just for visuals it's good enough and you can get the scan units dirt cheap on ebay from vacuum robots. Just remove the original laser diode and feed it the 445 nm.

Meh, UV/VIS are straightforward instruments, doesn't really matter which one you use. Haven't done that modification yet myself, it's on the backburner since i don't have an acute need for it. If i had to recommend a unit i'd go for a LKB Ultrospec since i know for a fact that adding a fibre...

The components themself are actually more expensive than a 95% completed setup... You buy a UV/VIS for 100 bucks (lots of "broken"/untested ones on ebay, unigreenscheme is a good supplier in europe), replace the D2 lamp with the fibre output (or some other way to couple in light) install a...

Don't confuse resolution with accuracy... Also, those are new units. I don't think many hobbyists are going to blow 3k for a new Thorlabs. Most of the stuff that's currently on ebay uses 1024 sensors. Like i said, you can use smallband devices for a better resolution (like the Thorlabs 350 nm...

Yeah, but with the usual 1024 sensors you won't get that... You can be happy if it's +/- 2-5 nm. CCD is good for instant measurements, but the resolution is actrocious. New sensors with 2-3k pixles are better, but still not nearly enough for your <0.5 nm. Especially if it's a wideband...

Or just use a beamsplitter... But if you're using a line CCD based spectrometer it doesn't matter anyway since they are only accurate to a few nm due to their shitty resolution. If you want to do it right, you either use a white target for a reflection measurement or a beam splitter for a...

Well, it actually IS a camera, just one with only one row of pixels. Also, bricks or aluminium are kinda shitty white targets, just defocus the beam and point it at some PTFE (thread seal tape/plumbers tape). For the tape, just wrap a few layers of tape around some object and you get a really...

To be fair, i've only ever seen the "one glass slice" Etalon in person in one laser, and that thing is my heavily modified SP 2000/2020. One of those things that's theoretically possible, but requires a huge amount of effort to do. But i got the SP from a laser scientist who was really into...

No, not the output power stability, i'm talking about the mechanical stability of the setup: Laser, optical bench, optics, plate, object. The whole setup can't move further than half a wavelength or the hologram is toast due to interference. That's what makes taking large holograms with low...

The only limiting factor for holography is stability, so why wouldn't those lasers be suitable? With an appropriate aperture size and maybe an etalon you can get the required beam, and as long as your setup is stable you can just crank up the exposure time to get the required illumination. Even...

Yes, sure you can use larger bore diameters but thats just ineffcient as hell. The RF excited lasers that you mentioned had large bores, not because they wanted that, but because manufacturing a perfectly straight meter long capillary was practically impossible for them. So it was a simple case...

Congratulations, but that not going to work for long. It only takes a single dust particle to land on one of those dies, as soon as it burns in the reflection goes up->more power goes into the die-> dead.

Soldering is an EXTREMELY BAD idea, at that point you might as well use a blowtorch to attach a wire. Those chips are extremely heat sensitive, heating the die with a soldering iron is absolutely going to destroy them.

Now it's 100% dead. You would need a wire bonder to reattach the wires to the pin (it's just 3 wires to account for the high current), and a single dust particle on the actual laser diode will kill it as soon as you turn the laser on. That's why i said that you would need a cleanroom, if you...